sing-a-long
qotd, a two-fer

food stuffs

* In a previous post about what you'd make for a visit from Anthony Bourdain, Catherine commented that she'd make her granny's biscuits and chocolate gravy. I thought I'd run across most of the unique dishes the south had to offer (and tasted all the ones that didn't involve intestines) but had never before heard of this chocolatey, biscuity goodness. Lo and behold, this month's Saveur put it on its 100 things list:  Biscuits and Chocolate Gravy. I might have to wait to try it until I make it to Knoxville again, simply because I lack cold enough hands for biscuit making. But, yum.

* Speaking of Bourdain, I now want to go to Brittany in the worst way. I'll even put on a dorky striped shirt if it helps me get there. 

* In that same Saveur -- the list issue is my perennial favorite -- the editors included a piece on Lupini Beans. I remember my grandmother offering up dishes of them as snacks. We'd suck those tender, salty legumes out of their shells with abandon. I couldn't resist buying a jar when I went to the grocery the next day. The Cora brand beans are so salty I can't even eat them. Either my sensitivity to good old NaCl has changed or I need to brine my own. Or, maybe, I just need to find another brand. Hrm. Anyone?

* I made a cake last weekend.

IMG_4747 

The recipe is from Cook's Country and is called "Washington Cream (not a) Pie." Here's my thing about Cook's Country and its sister publications - would it kill Christopher Kimball to make it easier for subscribers to use their websites? I'm already paying you for the publication, so clearly I value what you have to offer, but to also have to pay for access to the site for recipes that the magazine promotes? That's just irritating, especially to those, like Kimball, who are big fans of thrift. 

Anyway. About the cake.

The printed magazine recipe directs you to the website in order to download additional recipes for white cake and the interior custard. The only instructions provided were for the chocolate ganache and assembly. In order to get those missing bits, the site wanted me to give it all sorts of info, which I'm not going to do, since I'm already a subscriber and they have all of this stuff already. Seriously, Kimball? Seriously?

Anyway.

I punted, which turned out to be the right choice. The cake part was meh, if only because it was a box mix (it was a busy day and I had 19 other things to cook). Fortunately, the cake only serves as a vehicle for everything else. The ganache was good, tho a little to bitter when put against the rest. For the custard, I used Ruhlman's ratio for Vanilla Sauce and took the Bavarian option. 

OMFG. So good. I've been eating the leftover out of the plastic container with a spoon. Whipping up your own batch is beyond easy. If you can separate eggs, you can do this. then the base sauce can be turned into anything from ice cream to donut filling to creme brulee. 

So, overall, Washington Cream (not a) Pie for the win. And Kimball can suck it.

Comments

i totally agree with you about the cook's illustrated website/mag subscriber thing. it's bugged the crap out of me for some time now.

the cake looks great tho...might have to try it!

very recently I wanted to look at something on their website and it asked me a question or 2.. I never completed the full questionaire.. guess what? they now have me on their email spam list "buy cook's illustrated favorite frogs intestine recipes of all time!!" and I am still bitter about it.

You will NOT be disappointed! :)

Just found your blog looking for pics of the cake because I am making it today from the magazine. I was peeved about having to register to get the recipes, too. Thanks for your alternative recipe suggestions. Looks great!

Here are the recipes for White Layer Cake and Easy Custard:

White Layer Cake
Makes 3 8-inch layers
If you’ve forgotten to bring the milk and egg white mixture to room temperature, set the bottom of the measuring cup containing it in a sink of hot water and stir until the mixture feels cool rather than cold, around 65 degrees. Cake layers can be wrapped and stored for one day.
Nonstick cooking spray
2 1/4 cups cake flour , plus more for dusting pans
1 cup whole milk , at room temperature
6 large egg whites , at room temperature
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon table salt

12 tablespoons unsalted butter , softened but still cool
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray three 8-inch round cake pans with nonstick cooking spray, dust with flour, and tap pans to remove excess flour. Mix milk, egg whites, and vanilla together in 2-cup measuring cup.
2. Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in bowl of electric mixer at low speed. Add butter and beat at low speed until mixture resembles moist crumbs, with no powdery streaks remaining.
3. Add all but 1/2 cup of milk mixture to crumbs and beat at medium speed (or high speed if using handheld mixer) for 1 1/2 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup of milk mixture and beat 30 seconds more. Stop mixer and scrape sides of bowl. Return mixer to medium (or high) speed and beat 20 seconds longer.
4. Divide batter evenly between three prepared cake pans and using rubber spatula, spread into even layer. Arrange pans at least 3 inches from the oven walls and 3 inches apart. (If oven is small, place pans on upper middle and lower middle racks in staggered fashion to allow for air circulation.) Bake until thin skewer or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 21 to 25 minutes.
5. Rest cakes in pans 3 minutes, then loosen from sides of pans with a knife. Invert onto large plate, reinvert onto wire racks. Cool completely, about 1 1/2 hours.

Easy Custard
Makes 3 1/2 cups
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup sugar
Pinch table salt

5 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons cornstarch
4 tablespoons unsalted butter , cold, cut into 4 pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. Heat cream, 6 tablespoons sugar, and salt in heavy saucepan over medium heat until simmering, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks in medium bowl until thoroughly combined. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until sugar begins to dissolve. Whisk in cornstarch until mixture is pale yellow and thick, about 30 seconds.
2. When cream mixture reaches full simmer, gradually whisk half into yolk mixture to temper. Return mixture to saucepan, scraping bowl with rubber spatula; return to simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until 3 or 4 bubbles burst on surface and mixture is thickened, about 1 minute. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Transfer mixture to bowl, press plastic wrap directly on surface, and refrigerate until set, at least 3 hours or up to 2 days.

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